The ADO bus company runs an efficient air conditioned coach service all over Mexico. Online we reserve seats for the three hour journey up the coast to the beach resort of Tulum where we check into a new, self catering, studio apartment in a resort with a laundrette, a gym and a big swimming pool, with a ceiba tree growing on an island in the middle of it.
Tulum town is about three miles from the beautiful but small sandy, palm tree backed beaches that are it’s primary attraction, but that gap is being quickly plugged with eco chic hotels and resorts whose benefits are proclaimed on posters with nauseating and meaningless messages like: karmic construction philosophy, nature freedom and consciousness in one place, promising an intimate and transformative endeavour, where dreams join nature, merging with the natural and honest world, a next level next generation destination, a force of nature, inspired by the past and ready for what is coming. What’s coming is a new international airport, a new coastal railway line (which is great if it’s designed to serve the local community), the deforestation of the land between Tulum and the ocean and access to the beaches only for the elites who can afford the entrance fees. All of this bohemian eco cynicism hides the fact that these developments will destroy a narrow strip of Caribbean forest and assuage the guilt, if they have any, of these condo residents. Tulum is destined to become like the awful coastal towns to the north, Playa Del Carmen and Cancun.
We walk the eight mile round trip to the Tulum Mayan ruins at the northern beach and back along the beach road past the construction sites. Jo covers a similar distance on a couple of runs to the southern beach, where she’s discovered access to the beach, through a beach bar, so avoiding the beach entrance fee. Today she’s visiting the big Northern Mayan site of Chichen Itza which is a six hour round trip bus ride. I’m happy to remain at home in our apartment or by the pool, reading, writing this, and, because somebody has to do the chores around here, doing the laundry.
We’re in Playa Del Carmen where my daughter, Hannah and her family are happily ensconced in an all inclusive hotel outside the town. It’s the best place to be because Playa is an expensive, charmless, overhyped, overcrowded coastal resort. Despite this we have a terrific day with the family by one of the many pools at the lush all-inclusive resort.
Later we have a raucous evening in Mannes German bar with three Americans from New York and New Orleans. The couple from Louisiana have been coming here every year for ten years. ‘We just love the beach, and it’s so cheap’ says Nancy. We’re introduced to the smiley waiter Louis. He’s all back slaps and handshakes and when we’re about to leave he gives Jo the bill on which he’s overcharged us by a whacking £20. Needless to say, the scoundrel is very apologetic.
Jo absolutely refuses to be cheated, when the following afternoon we eat a late lunch at a cheap eatery away from the main drag. The tables are plastic and after we’ve ordered, three young semi delirious drunks slump down at the table next to us. At the end of the average meal, the waiter presents us with an unitemised bill. Jo looks at it, queries it, and gets a revised bill, still too much, but not worth arguing about, so we pay. As we’re about to leave, the owner attends our table with our cash in hand and says ‘You give me more money.’ Well, that’s the last straw. Jo explodes. She stands up and looking down at the chef, grabs his calculator. I’m thinking she’s going to hit him with it. ‘Look.’ She shouts. The diners’ heads turn towards her, even the drunks are roused from their stupor and look on, astonished at this woman. Jo fiercely punches into the calculator the cost of every item we’ve consumed and yells the dish and its price. At the end she loudly declares, ‘See, now you give me money.’ The speechless owner nervously hands over a few notes and scuttles back to the safety of his kitchen. I’m expecting an applause but the diners look a bit shocked. Jo scans the audience ‘Adios.’ she says, elated to have finally challenged a Mexican cheat. I’m mighty impressed.
For the next stage of our Central American trip please visit San Salvador City and The Pacific Coast, El Salvador.
